The First Recording Session

January 26. Murun.

We are in the ger of a medicine man who is also a musician. While waiting for music-related action, we talk with the medicine man, who proudly shows us some of the homeopathic herbs he keeps in reindeer-skin pouches that his grandfather used.

Several singers and musicians show up, ready to sing. It is at this moment that I learn something: the Darhad people don't just sing. Well, I should qualify this. They don't just sing when they're being recorded. They sing once they have donned the traditional clothing - fancy deels and hats. Then, once they've stepped into the role of singer or musician, the music flows. And beautifully!

This first session is a treat. The musicians play the horsehead fiddle, another smaller fiddle, a small instrument akin to the jews' harp, and a percussion "instrument" made with sheep bones. One man does throat singing while playing the horsehead fiddle. Throat singing is a sound unlike any other, and this is the only time we will record it during our journey. The other songs in this session are melodies we will hear repeated in the other towns.