Typical Day - This One's in Bayanzurkh

January 27.

I reach from deep inside my sleeping bag for my tiny thermometer - the kind you attach to a zipper pull. It reads 28 degrees Fahrenheit. Water in my Nalgene bottle is frozen. It's 9:00 am. The fire has been going since 6:50. I roll out, and into insulated pants and down jacket, all in one motion. Then while eating breakfast, somehow it gets too warm inside.

Our hostess, Duujii, is telling the stories behind the songs to Badmaa and Bataa. As I watch "B2" with her, I can't help but think this is some sort of miracle. Everyone that Mishig is choosing to include is very helpful and enthusiastic. It's in the quiet moments of waiting (such as this one, while Mishig is out somewhere with the van), that I realize everything is going just as it should. No schedule to which to adhere, and everything is unfolding. Later in the day, Badmaa echoes this sentiment, telling me she is really happy with how things are going.

This is no surprise, really, having done the recording that day at the Bayanzurkh school. The head of the town's cultural center showed up with his accordion. Upon donning his dress clothes in the teachers' lounge where we recorded, he glanced at the mirror and declared triumphantly, "Bi huu Chinggis Khaan!" ("I'm the son of Chinggis Khan!"). He was great with the kids.

The kids were great! Poised, enthusiastic, and in full voice.

Before recording at the school, B2 and I were led to the gym, where on that Sunday, a number of parents were playing volleyball. We barely sat down before it was time to go to the teachers' lounge to record. But while in the hallways, I caused quite a stir. The younger kids would run up to me, catch a glimpse of my eyes and nose, and run off. Perhaps I'm the first foreigner they've seen? I smile at each of them.

After lunch, we went to an elder singer's house. Lots of milk tea... and Mishig explained what we are doing. Then another elder singer, a lady, walked in. She was beaming with delight. I could tell by the way she sang, that she was visualizing, not just singing. I'm especially grateful that she showed up, and with such sparkle.

The day wraps up, and we are still in Bayanzurkh, even though we completely packed that morning. Mishig assures us that it's wiser to travel during the day. I couldn't agree more. (He spent part of the day hunting around for a part to fix the van.) Dinner involves mutton.

I decide at the end of the day that I'm tired, but enormously satisfied with how things are going. I also decide I've already eaten too much mutton. And way too much mutton fat. I roll out my sleeping bag on the floor next to B2, and fall asleep.